Diamond Cluster Drop Earrings

Earrings – Diamond Clusters, French, c.1890-1900

Description:

A pair of earrings, each designed as a cluster of 1.50 carats of antique diamonds suspended from an articulated single stone stud. The stones are set in white claws with the centre stone slightly raised, and the under-setting in yellow. Employing a post and continental fitting.

Commentary:

This pair of earrings from the Belle Époque were designed to go with the prevailing fashion for chignon hairstyles, where the hair is piled up on the head, revealing the ears. Small studs like this pair are a representative example of the type. These are rare on account that earrings are usually divided up over the proceeding generations and were not made in large numbers. For contrast, jewellers advertised as many as 30 pages of brooches for every one page of earrings.

English examples can be seen on page 64 of Victorian Jewellery (by Peter Hinks, 1996, Ransom House), showing five pairs of representative examples from the Gold & Silversmiths Company dated 1901, which constitute their only offering of earrings, limited to just three designs of varying sizes.

A photograph of Lady Monckton, the widow of Sir John Monckton, Clerk to the Corporation of the City of London, photographed in evening dress in about 1895 from Jewellery, 1789-1910: The International Era, Vol. 2 (1862-1910) by Shirley Bury, published in 1991 by the Antique Collectors’ Club, shows her wearing a near-identical example of the earrings.

Technical Details and Assessments:

Diamonds (22), Averages are stated where applicable, Shape: round to square cushion, Facet designs (various): antique brilliants of different ages, Measuring (approximately; graduated): 3.00 mm to 3.75 mm, Weight (total; estimate): 1.54 carats, Colour: various (‘near colourless’ to ‘faint yellow’; G-M), Clarity: various (mostly SI1-I2).

Settings, Dimensions (overall): 17.00 mm x 10.00 mm, Material: 18-carat gold (tested), Hallmarked: gold (18-carat fineness, Paris, very indistinct), Construction: handmade, Weight (gross): 4.30 grams.